Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Lara Croft Doll

Lara Croft


I got so excited at the opportunity to meet THE Lara Croft - Shelley Blond - at a local convention this summer. It was her first promo appearance in the US! Naturally, as a gift-giver, I had to crochet a Lara Croft doll (PS1 accurate, of course) and gift it to her. She loved it (see end of pattern for picture).

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Materials:

 Red Heart Super Saver (or any Worsted Weight #4) yarn in Aran (skin color), white, dark grey, light brown, dark brown, & blue
 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)
 Scissors
Felt for eyes (or you can crochet them, it's up to you)

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Notes:

  • Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out. You can use a different yarn and hook if so desired, just make sure you use a good combination that won't leave gappy holes.
  • The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  • I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  • If you don't know what a Magic Ring is, don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

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(US) Terminology Key

  • ch = chain (make a slip knot and then make the foundation chain)
  • st = stitch
  • sl st = slip stitch
  • SC = single crochet
  • dec = decrease (2 sc together)
  • inc = increase (2 sc in 1 st)
  • MR = Magic Ring (see notes for instructions)
  • around = repeat steps until you reach the last stitch of the round
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • hdc inc = two hdc in 1 stitch
  • hdc dec = yarn over, pull yarn through 2 stitches (4 loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through all 4 loops

This is an altered version of a no-sew crochet doll base by Pink's Cozy Corner, found on their YouTube Channel

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Arms (make 2, using Aran):
1: 8 sc in MR (8)
**Change color to dark grey**
2 - 4: sc in each around (8)
**Change color to Aran**
5 - 14: sc in each around (8) sl st in next stitch.
F/O, leaving short tail (will crochet onto body, so don't need long tail for sewing). Weave in ends.


Legs (make 2, starting with brown):
1: 6 in MR (6)
2: inc in each around (12)
3: sc 3, inc around (15)
4: in BLO, sc in each around (15)
5: sc in 5, dec x3, sc in 4 (12)
6: sc in 4, dec x2, sc in 4 (10)
7 - 9: sc in each around (10)
*Change to white yarn**
10 - 11: sc in each around (10)
**Change to Aran color**
12 - 14: sc in each around (10)
**Change to brown color**
15 - 16: sc in each around (10)
F/O first leg and weave in end.
Second Leg:
17: ch 2, sc in other leg (make sure legs/feet are facing the same direction), sc in 9, sc in back of ch 2, sc in 10 (24)
18: sc in 6, inc x2, sc in 10, inc x2, sc in 4 (28)
19 - 20: sc in each around (28)
21: sc in 7, dec x2, sc in 11, dec x2, sc in 2 (24)
**Change to blue**
22: sc in 6, dec x2, sc in 9, dec x2, sc in 1 (20)
23: sc in 6, dec x1, sc in 9, dec x1, sc in 1 (18)
24: sc in 6, dec, sc in 8, dec (16)
25 - 26: sc in each around (16)
27: sc in 6, inc x2, sc in 6, inc x2 (20)
28: sc in 7, inc, sc in 10, inc, sc in 1 (22)
29 - 30: sc in each around (22)
31: sc in 3, **change color to Aran, dec, **change color to blue, (sc in 3, dec) x3, sc in last 2 sts (18)
32: sc in 2, **change color to Aran, sc in 3, **change color to blue, sc in 2, **change color to Aran, add arm (4 sc), **change color to blue, sc in 4, **change color to Aran, add arm (4 sc) (18 sts total)
33: **change color to blue, sc in 1, **change color to Aran, sc in 4, **change color to blue, sc in 13 (18 sts total)
34: sc in 1, **change color to Aran, sc in 1, dec, (sc in 2, dec) x3, sc in 1 (14 sts)
35: using Aran, dec x1, inc in each st, inc in next st (28)
36 - 43: sc in each around (28)
44: sc in 2, dec around (21)
45: sc in 1, dec around (14)
46: dec around (7)
F/O. Weave tail through last round and pull to close.


Boobs (make 2 using blue):
1: ch 5, sc in 2nd chain from hook and remaining sts (4) ch 1, turn
2: sc in each (4) ch 1, turn
3: sc in 1, dec, sc in 1 (3) ch 1, turn
4: in FLO, sc in each (3) ch 1, turn
5: sc in 1, inc, sc in 1 (4)
6: ch 1, sc in corner of same side, sc in flat side to other corner, ch 1, sc to other corner.
F/O with tail for sewing. Stuff and sew to chest.


Holsters (make 2, using dark grey):
1: ch 5, sc across, start sc in other side of foundation chain: inc in 1st stitch, sc in 2, inc in last stitch (10)
2 - 3: sc in each around (10)
4: sc in 1, dec, sc in 4, dec, sc in 1 (8)
5 - 6: sc in each around (8) sc in next st on round 6
F/O first, don't F/O second
Second Holster:
7: sc in 4, ch 10, sc in other holster, sc in 4, ch 10 **put belt around Lara's waist now and sc in 2nd holster.
8: sc in 4 across holster + body, sc in 10 ch sts, sc in 4 across holster + body, sc in 10 ch sts (18)
9: sc 4 in underside top sts of holster (leave no holes), ch 4, sc to leg/shorts, ch 2, sc in waist + belt, ch 2, sc to leg/shorts, ch 4, sc in holster, sc in 3 underside top sts of holster, sc to hip + 1st ch st + 4, sc in back and next st, sc in 4, sc in hip + holster.
F/O. Attach yarn to bottom of holster, sc in bottom of shorts around individual legs.


Backpack (make 3, using light brown):
1: ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining sts (6) 
F/O.
Fourth panel (using light brown):
1: ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining sts (6) 
2: in FLO, dec, sc in 2, dec (4) ch 1, turn
3: sc in 1, dec, sc in 1 (3) ch 1, turn
4: dec over 3 (1)
F/O.
Front + Back panels (using light brown):
1: ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining sts (5)
2 - 5: sc in each across (5) ch 1, turn
F/O.
Sew panels together, creating a squished cube.
Straps (using light brown):
Attach light brown to bag top corner, ch 12, attach to bag bottom corner. F/O.


Wig Cap (make 1, using dark brown):
1: 8 sc in MR (8)
2: inc in each around (16)
3: sc in 1, inc around (24)
4: sc in 2, inc around (32)
5: sc in 14, ch 1, turn (14)
6: sc in 14, ch 1, turn (14) *leave remaining sts unworked
7 - 9: sc in each (14)
10: dec x2, sc in 6, dec x2 (10)
11: dec, sc in 6, dec (8)
12: sc in each (8)
13: dec, sc in 4, dec (6)
14: sc in each across (6) and around entire piece (dc in internal corners where you started rnd 5).
F/O with long tail for sewing.

Thread dark brown yarn through wig cap and tie to prevent pulling out. Once hair is to desired thickness, braid it and tie off with black yarn.
Sew wig cap to head.

Hope you enjoy! let me know if you have any questions or problems ^-^

^^ Me and Shelley Blond!! ^^
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Pattern is an original created by Gem (StrawbryGem) and copyrighted July 2025. Please do not sell this pattern or claim it as your own. Links to the original pattern would be greatly appreciated. You may create items with this pattern and sell them as long as credit is given where applicable. 

Lara Croft and Tomb Raider are not owned by Gem (StrawbryGem).

Monday, July 28, 2025

Huntr/x - Rumi Doll

 Rumi Doll - K-Pop Demon Hunters Huntr/x

🎵We're going up, up, up, it's our moment~🎵 As soon as the movie started rolling, I knew I liked Rumi. After cosplaying her at a convention, I simply had to crochet her!


Materials:

 Red Heart Super Saver (or any Worsted Weight #4) yarn in peach (skin color), white, black, gold, brown, & purple
 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook
 Size 1.75 mm crochet hook
 Gold embroidery thread/floss
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)
 Scissors

Notes:

  • Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out. You can use a different yarn and hook if so desired, just make sure you use a good combination that won't leave gappy holes.
  • The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  • I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  • If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Tuesday, June 24, 2025

Fortnite Sprites (Ch6 S3)

Someone on the Fortnite Girlie's Facebook Page said "I want the sprites as plushies, they are so cute!!" and I immediately grabbed a hook and got to work.


Materials:

 Any bulky (#6) yarn in a color of your choice (I used Premier Yarns Parfait Chunky Pom Poms)
 WW (#4) yarn in desired colors for accessories
 Size K (#10.5 or 6.50 mm) crochet hook
 Size G (#6 or 4.25 mm) crochet hook
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)
 Scissors
 Felt sheets in red and yellow


Notes:

  • Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out. You can use a different yarn and hook if so desired, just make sure you use a good combination that won't leave gappy holes.
  • The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  • I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  • If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Tuesday, June 17, 2025

Tails the Fox

After making Sonic and Shadow, I found out that Colleen O'Shaughnessey (the voice actress for Miles "Tails" Prower in the Sonic movies) is attending the retro gaming convention I'm attending in July. So, naturally, I had to crochet Tails next!

Materials:

 WW (#4) yarn in yellow, white, red, and a bit of black
    Optional: fuzzy white yarn to make the whiskers, chest fluff, and tail slightly fluffy. This yarn will be worked in tandem with the white WW yarn. Note: I didn't use fuzzy yarn until the tail, so pictures do not reflect usage of fuzzy yarn.
 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)
 Scissors
 Felt sheets in white and black (optional pink for the mouth)

Notes:

  • Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out. You can use a different yarn and hook if so desired, just make sure you use a good combination that won't leave gappy holes.
  • The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  • I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  • If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Thursday, June 12, 2025

Cortex (Crash Bandicoot)





I was creating a pattern for Tails, and I made the head a bit oblong. When I got to the end, I instantly thought "Oh my gosh! This looks just like Cortex's head from Crash Bandicoot!!" And thus, this pattern was created in 6 hours thanks to ADHD hyperfixation😅
Materials:
 WW (#4) yarn in yellow, white, brown, and dark blue
 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook
 Embroidery thread in black
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)
 Scissors
 Felt sheets in white, red, and black

Notes:

  • Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out. You can use a different yarn and hook if so desired, just make sure you use a good combination that won't leave gappy holes.
  • The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  • I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  • If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.

Wednesday, January 22, 2025

Shadow the Hedgehog

 


Materials:

 WW yarn in black, beige/tan (I used Red Heart "Aran"), white, red, and a bit of gold.
 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)

 Scissors

 Felt in White and Black

Notes:

  Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out.
  The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.



Head (using black):

1: 6 sc in MR (6)
2: inc in each stitch (12)
3: 1 sc, inc (18)
4: 2 sc, inc (24)
5: 3 sc, inc (30)
6: 4 sc, inc (36)
7-14: sc in each (36)
15: 4 sc, dec (30)
16: 3 sc, dec (24)
17: 2 sc, dec (18)
18: 1 sc, dec (12)
19: dec in each (6)
F/O and weave in tail end.


Mouth (using tan):
1: ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook & next 9 stitches (10) ch 1, turn
2: hdc inc, hdc in next 9, hdc inc (12) ch 1, turn
3: sc in each (12) ch 1, turn
4: (hdc dec) x2, hdc in 4, (hdc dec) x2 (8)
Sc around entire piece and F/O with long tail for sewing.


Nose (using black):
1: 4 in MR (4)
2: sc in each (4)
F/O with long tail for sewing


Sew mouth to head. Cut eyes out of white, red, and black felt, using pictures as reference. Sew nose to top of mouth. Crochet around the white felt of eyes with black to create an eyebrow effect. Embroider frowny face with black yarn.


Ears (make 2, using black):
1: 4 in MR (4)
2: 1 sc, inc (6)
3: 1 sc, inc (9)
4: sc in each (9)
F/O with tail for sewing

Inner ear (make 2, using tan):
1: Ch 4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and next 2 stitches. Ch 1, turn.
2: dec, sc *Don't ch 1, turn**
3: dec
F/O with tail to sew.

Sew inner ear to black ear. Sew black ears to top of head.


Center headpiece/spike (using black):
1: 4 in MR (4)
2: inc (8)
3: 1 sc, inc (12)
4-7: sc in each (12)
8: 1 sc, inc (18)
9-11: sc in each (18)
Ch 1, turn
12: hdc in 6 stitches. ch 1, turn (6)
13: hdc in 6 stitches.
F/O with tail for sewing. Do not stuff.


Side spikes (make 4, using black):
1: 4 in MR (4)
2: inc (8)
3-5: sc in each (8)
6: 1 sc, inc (12)
7-9: sc in each (12)
Ch 1, turn
10: sc in 6 (6)
F/O. Leave tail for sewing.
**For bottom 2 spikes, don't do row 10**


Back head spike (using black):
1: 4 in MR (4)
2: inc (8)
3-4: sc in each (8)
5: 1 sc, inc (12)
6-7: sc in each (12)
8: 1 sc, inc (18)
9-10: sc in each
F/O with tail for sewing.


Sew spikes to head. I sewed them as I was making them, which made it easy to identify which was which. I used red felt for the stripes on his spikes.



Feet (make 2, starting with red):
1: 5 in MR (5)
2: inc (10)
Change color to white
3: in BLO, sc in each (10)
4: (dec) x2, sc in remaining stitches (8)
5: sc in each (8)
5.5: change color to red (do NOT F/O white), sc in 3 in FLO, ch 1 turn, sc in 3 red stitches. F/O and tie off red ends.
Using white,
6: sc in BLO of 3 and both loops of remaining white stitches (8)
Change color to black,
7-10: sc in each (8)
F/O first leg.

For second leg:
11: sc in 1 stitch, ch 1, attach other leg with a sc, sc in next 7 stitches, sc in back of chain you made, sc in remaining 7 stitches (18)
12: sc in 6, inc in next stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, inc in next stitch, sc in remaining 4 (20; increasing on hips)
13: sc in 12, (inc) x4, sc in 4 stitches (24; increasing on belly section)
14-21: sc in each (24)
22: 2 sc, dec (18)
F/O with long tail for sewing to head later.


Arms (make 2, using white):
1: 5 in MR (5)
2: inc (10)
3-4: sc in each (10)
Ch 3, sc in 2, sc to circle (this is the thumb)
5: dec in each (5)
**Stuff now!**
6: sc in each (5)
[Change to black]
7-10: sc in each (5)
F/O with tail for sewing.


Sew arms to top of body, making sure thumbs are facing the correct way when doing so. 


Shoulder spikes (make 2, using black):
1: 4 sc in MR (4)
2: sc in each (4)
3: inc (8)
4-5: sc in each (8)
F/O leaving tail for sewing. Sew to back behind arms.


Tail (using black):
Ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd chain from hook, sc in remaining 3.
F/O, sew to back of body.


Sew head to body and shoulder spikes behind the shoulders. Add details as preferred. I used red felt for the stripes on his head spikes, and crocheted a triangle and brushed out some yarn for his chest fluff.

Arm rings (make 2, using gold)
Ch 11, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 9 (10)
Sc in each (10) F/O
Put around arm and sew ends together.

Ankle rings (make 2, using gold)
Ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and remaining 13 (14) F/O
Put around ankle and sew ends together. Add a few tacking stitches to the foot if you desire to keep the ring from slipping off the shoe.


You are all done! Enjoy your Shadow~


Sunday, January 5, 2025

Sonic The Hedgehog

Materials:

 WW yarn in blue, beige/tan (I used Red Heart "Aran"), white, red, and a bit of black
 Size F (#5 or 3.75 mm) crochet hook
 Yarn Needle
 Polyester fiberfill (pillows work just as well!)
 Scissors
 Felt in White and Black

Notes:
  Gauge isn't that important, so long as your stitches are tight and the stuffing won't show or fall out.
  The (parentheses) at the end of each Rnd/Row indicate the number of stitches at the end of that Rnd/Row.
  I work in continuous rounds (aka spiral rounds), but if you prefer to join at the end of each round that's fine. I also decrease in front loops only because I've heard that it makes the decrease stitch less visible.
  If you don't know what a Magic Ring is don't panic! It's also called Magic Loop or Magic Circle. Here's an alternative: If the pattern says 6 sc in Magic Ring you can ch 2 and 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook and join stitches. I prefer working with a Magic Ring because you can pull it as tight as you want so that the stuffing won't show. Just use whatever you feel most comfortable using.